We rented a car and drove to the tiny country The Most Serene Republic of San Marino, with legitimate claim to being the oldest continual republic in the world. San Marino is the only of the Italian city-states still independent--refusing to unite into the country of Italy at the end of the 19th century.
Tiny San Marino—24 square miles with 30,000 residents—teeters on the top of 2,500 foot Mount Titano that juts up from the surrounding plains. Marked by three prominent watch towers, the old medieval city defies invasion and gravity! Because this area is naturally fortified, the people are fiercely independent. Parking is a huge problem, but busses and cars wind their way up the steep switchbacks.
We trudged up steep cobblestone passageways lined with shops selling leather goods, jewelry, and souvenirs into the old fortifications and walked along the ramparts with stunning 360 degree views of the entire region. Dungeon rooms displayed tools of torture and weapons, although it would be a rather unrealistic enemy who would try to overtake such a well-situated and protected castle.
Our friends from Michigan, Gianni and Primo, were born in San Marino and lived there until their twenties. Dual citizenship entitles them to some interesting perks, including a mandatory once-a-year visit to meet with government officials to air family concerns and voice opinions on governance issues. On the day of our visit, Primo was in San Marino for his annual visit to the government. It was the day of the installation of the new government officials, the Captains Regent, and a parade of soldiers arrived for the ceremony marching through the main square in their colorful uniforms and distinctive blue and white feather adorned helmets.
After the parade of soldiers and the entourage of dignitaries, we saw a bride and groom pose for wedding pictures in the city square with its fantastic view high above the countryside.
We lunched in a restaurant in the city square recommended by our friends. Primo, eating with his family members at a nearby table, greeted us warmly and the staff treated us as family. Primo sent us several bottles of excellent local wine—one red, one white. (This kind of wine is never available in the U.S. as the entire production is consumed locally by natives and tourists.) Fish and pasta again dominated the table, and Primo joined us for a special panna cotta desert (a creamy cooked egg-less custard) which finished us off, followed by complimentary shot of limoncello!
Our return drive to Ravenna brought us to the Basilica of Saint Vitale in late afternoon. This church exhibited the most beautiful and best preserved of mosaics from the Byzantine period that we had seen. Dating from 547 A.D., every square inch of ceiling and upper wall was adorned with depictions of saints and Old Testament themes. Marble columns drew the eye toward the high ceilings where the glitter of gold reflected in the streaming late day sunlight. Through the courtyard stands the Mausoleum of Galia Placidia, a very small but perfectly intact structure from 430 A.D. which was commissioned by the Empress Galia Placidia. Scholars found no evidence of her internment there, but three sarcophagi fill niches on the outside walls. Notable is the mosaic of deep blue sky with golden stars as which highlights the biblical mosaics. It is reputed that Cole Porter composed the famous song “Night and Day” while on a 1920 visit to this mausoleum.
Although we ran out of time before we could visit Dante’s tomb in the Basilica of San Francisco, another lovely sunset punctuated a busy and memorable day.
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