The sunrise broke as we entered the port of Venice. Mist hung over the tops of buildings, and spires poked through the heavy morning haze. Venice is an island city, with streets of water and 400 bridges—and a city full of tourists. Because of its location on 118 islands, everything sold, consumed, or used there must be brought by boat. The many kinds of boats move through the waterways—gondolas, of course, but also an ambulance boat, a postal boat, a police boat, a fire boat, and even a Brinks security boat!
We purchased a day pass to ride the public transportation called vaporetto, a water bus, that chugged along the Grand Canal which bisects the city for 2 ¼ miles. The pass allowed for a hop-on, hop off anywhere along the route. Lining the canal on either side are significant buildings from every age as early as the 12th century. Many buildings lean into each other in various states of disrepair or preservation. Palace after palace, church after church—the wealth of this city is clear: Venice was an important trading center and the Venetians grew rich from the exploits of early explorers and traders to Asia.
Finally coming into view was the Ponte di Rialto, the famous bridge spanning the Grand Canal. On both sides of the bridge, 24 shops line the stairway.
On the south side of St. Mark’s Cathedral, the Piazzetta di San Marco protected by two giant columns, stretches to the sea. To the north, the orange brick bell tower rises high above the plaza. The great Doges (the supreme head of state) Palace stretches for several city blocks in its stone filigree and decorative pink stone walls.
The Clocktower, from 1499, is a seven story building, dominated by a stone sculpted winged lion, the symbol of Venice near the top. The clock itself, called an astronomical clock, has a deep blue face, marked by the twelve astrological houses as well as roman numerals of all twenty-four hours.
The fantastic St. Mark’s Basilica causes visual overload. It is difficult to focus on the whole because the stonework, decoration, and colors, all compete for attention. The church was commissioned in 829 to honor the remains of St. Mark, the evangelist. The present Basilica dates from 1071 and is Byzantine and Romanesque in its architecture. The art throughout has elements of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, and Moorish styles. Because water was bubbling up through the piazza stones, tourists are routed along a raised walkway into the church. Much of the entryway floor of elaborate mosaic tile was covered in water.
All of the vaulted ceilings are gilded mosaics depicting various biblical scenes--gold, gold, gold everywhere the eye can see.
Behind the main alter is the Golden Altar Screen, a gold and jewel-encrusted tableau (11 x 4 ½ feet). Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and topazes embellish the icons of saints.
In the St. Mark’s Museum, the famous four gilded-bronze Byzantine horses are restored and on display. Originally, they stood high above the main door to the church. Because of weather and age damage, they were moved indoors, and reproductions were mounted in their place.
Many guidebooks recommend “getting lost” is the only way to experience Venice, and so we did. Our friend from Trieste, Andrea, recommended an off-the beaten path restaurant. Even though we had a map and two Eagle Scouts, it took 45 minutes to find our way. Winding alleyways, nooks and crannies, and street names changing every block all created an adventure to work up an appetite.
Finally, through a covered passageway we emerged to find the restaurant filled with gondoliers and other locals. The low-ceiling was open to huge timbers supporting the four floors above. The three rooms had a small bar, a large fireplace, and a raised area with a piano for musicians. Only one young waiter spoke English, but we chose the lunch of the day, a buffet of colorful roasted vegetables—eggplant, red onions, sweet peppers, and green beans. A vegetable soup, prosciutto, and a huge wheel of parmesan were also offered, along with roasted chicken and pork. Cooked to order pasta was also brought to the table: penne with brie and arugula and with fresh tomatoes, seafood, and basil. Oh, yes, and bread, oh the bread.
The final spectacular day to end a spectacular tour, brimming with sensory delights of every kind. Italy—a land of welcoming people, historical and cultural treasures, marvelous food, and la dolce vita.
National Geographic Feature on Venice, August 2009:
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/08/venice/newman-text
Here are some amazing pictures of Venice in December 2008 during the deepest flood in 22 years.
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2008/12/venice_under_water.html
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