From Monaco in perfect 70 degree cloudless weather, we drove to the village of Eze, France. High above the Mediterranean on a rocky outcropping, we had a lovely lunch at a restaurant/hotel, La Chevre d'or. The sea was dotted with boats, large and small, glistening on the water far below. The day was sunny and pleasant. A walk/climb through the medieval village on narrow cobblestone streets transported us to a long-ago time, where people lived close together for protection behind high walls, always on the lookout for invaders. This is perfume country and the spices, especially lavender and thyme are everywhere for sale in bulk and in soaps and perfumes. The streets are extremely narrow and the passage is often single file, winding around and around. It is very steep walking for climbing and descending and often there is a peek of a view through a tiny window or over a rampart. Flowers are everywhere—deep purple bougainvillea, red geraniums, ivy, orange and yellow lantana, blue plumbago. Pines, Russian olive, and oak trees rise green from what appears to be solid rock.
After a one hour drive just off the coastline to Vance, we encountered another medieval village of St. Paul de Vance. The walled city is larger than Eze and more preserved. Some 600 residents continue to live within the city walls. Commercial shops sell food specialties, art, clothing, and everything else. But it clearly is an artists' paradise. Flowers, ivy, and small trees fill every nook and cranny. The cobblestones are worn thin and shiny by the multitude of visitors each day, trudging up and down the paths.
Nearby we stumbled upon a permanent exhibition of Joan Miro—sculptures, paintings, textiles. In a park-like setting of tall pines, many Miro sculptures were displayed. Inside were sketches, paintings, and more sculpture. Wonderful!
And a wonderful day.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
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Ah, Jan, it sounds so wonderful. I just happened to see Eze in a video, 1000 Places to See Before You Die. It was just as you described. I think the travelers in it ate at the same restaurant you did. Enjoy!!!
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